Ikseondong KDrama Filming Spots: Goblin and Hotel Del Luna

Stepping into Ikseon-dong at nine in the morning, before the crowds arrive and the coffee shop espresso machines start grinding, feels like stepping straight onto a television set. Built in the 1920s as one of Seoul’s earliest modern housing developments, this maze of roughly one hundred traditional Hanok houses lay quiet for nearly a century. Today, its narrow stone passageways, tiled roofs, and retro storefronts host some of the most recognizable scene backdrops in Korean television history.

International fans know Ikseon-dong for its dreamy, nostalgic aesthetic. The contrast between traditional Korean architecture and vibrant contemporary interior design makes it an ideal setting for fantasy, romance, and time-slip dramas. Walking these alleys lets you trace the footsteps of immortal goblins, hotel proprietors for the dead, and high school sweethearts without leaving a single Seoul neighborhood.

Madang Flower Cafe

In the iconic fantasy romance Goblin (Guardian: The Lonely and Great God), this vibrant cafe serves as the backdrop for soft, contemplative street strolls where characters linger under hanging flora. It also makes a memorable appearance in Touch Your Heart, setting the scene for a sweet, low-key coffee date between the lead couple.

In real life, Madang Flower Cafe is a functioning florist shop and dessert cafe completely drenched in seasonal blooms, dried flower bouquets, and whimsical hanging lanterns. The glass exterior allows passersby to peer inside at vintage wooden tables and warm fairy lights, while the entrance remains framed by overflowing greenery year-round. It stands as one of the most photographed storefronts in all of Jongno-gu.

How to Get There

Take Seoul Subway Line 1, 3, or 5 to Jongno 3-ga Station. Take Exit 6 and walk straight for about two minutes toward the main entrance of Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. Turn right into the first major hanok alleyway, and you will find the floral display visible from the main junction. Please check local map applications before visiting as cafe opening hours in the area are subject to change.

Cafe Hotel Seine

In Hotel Del Luna, this eye-catching multi-story building appears as a vintage tea house and dessert parlor visited during retrospective scenes exploring the long past of the titular hotel. The venue’s distinctive grand retro aesthetic echoes the show’s dark fantasy and 1930s hotel motif.

In reality, Cafe Hotel Seine is a full-concept dessert lounge built inside a renovated 1960s motel building. The exterior retains its classic salmon-pink facade and vintage hotel sign. Inside, six floors are decorated like an old-world European grand hotel, featuring plush velvet seating, red carpets, antique key racks behind the counter, and fresh French pastries served on brass hotel trays.

How to Get There

Take Seoul Subway Line 1, 3, or 5 to Jongno 3-ga Station and leave via Exit 4. Cross the small street directly opposite the exit into the entry alley of Ikseon-dong. Walk less than thirty meters forward; the tall pink facade of Cafe Hotel Seine sits immediately on your left. Verify operating times online beforehand if you plan to order desserts indoors.

Ikseon-dong Central Hanok Alleys

The winding stone alleys connecting the center of the village served as key filming grounds for True Beauty, More Than Friends, and Heartbeat. Directors frequently use these narrow turns for romantic walking scenes, evening confession sequences, and dramatic rainy-day umbrella encounters.

These public passageways represent the heart of the village. The low wooden eaves of preserved Hanok roofs almost touch across the narrow footpaths, creating an intimate, tunnel-like corridor. While many houses now operate as boutiques, craft workshops, and restaurants, several remaining structures are private residences. Visitors should keep conversation volume respectful when wandering through residential side tracks.

How to Get There

Take Seoul Subway Line 3 or 5 to Jongno 3-ga Station, Exit 6. Walk directly into the pedestrian alley leading north. The entire central alley net stretches roughly three blocks between Donhwamun-ro 11-gil and Supyo-ro 28-gil. No ticket or reservation is needed to walk through these public alleys.

Unhyeongung Palace

Located on the northern boundary of the Ikseon-dong area, Unhyeongung Palace served as the exterior location for the grand residence shared by the Goblin and the Grim Reaper in Goblin. Its stone walls and traditional wooden gates were prominently featured in several outdoor walking scenes during the show’s early episodes.

Unhyeongung is the former residence of Heungseon Daewongun, the regent of Korea during the Joseon Dynasty, and the childhood home of Emperor Gojong. It offers a far quieter, more spacious palace experience compared to neighboring Gyeongbokgung. The complex features beautifully preserved timber halls, peaceful courtyards, and traditional stone walls topped with dark ceramic tiles.

How to Get There

Take Seoul Subway Line 3 to Anguk Station and take Exit 4. Walk straight for approximately 100 meters, and the main entrance gate will appear on your left. Alternatively, walk five minutes north along Supyo-ro from the center of Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. While admission is generally free, confirm opening hours on the official Seoul Culture site before planning your morning itinerary.

Make a Day of It

Ikseon-dong is compact enough to explore in a few hours, but its position in central Jongno makes it the perfect anchor for a full day of K-drama site hunting and local dining. Start your morning with a quiet walk through the alleys before the commercial shops open around 11:30 AM. This gives you unobstructed access to stone walls and traditional timber doorways for photos.

For lunch, skip generic tourist spots and try traditional hand-cut noodle soup (Kalguksu) at one of the neighborhood’s long-standing local diners tucked along Donhwamun-ro. Alternatively, taste modern Korean fusion dishes like braised pot rice (Sotbap) served inside restored Hanok dining halls. If you enjoy baking, queue early for freshly baked salt bread at popular local bakeries along the outer perimeter.

After noon, stroll five minutes west across the main road to Insadong for traditional tea houses, art galleries, and antique shops. If you walk ten minutes north, you reach the stone perimeter walls of Changdeokgung Palace and the historic Bukchon Hanok Village. Wrapping up your day with a sunset walk along the nearby Cheonggyecheon Stream offers another familiar sight from numerous modern romance dramas.

Photo Tips

Capturing the exact cinematic framing seen on screen requires simple timing and positioning tricks:

• Beat the Crowds: Shoot between 8:30 AM and 10:00 AM. The alleyways fill with visitors by midday, making low-angle wide shots nearly impossible.
• Madang Flower Cafe Framing: Position your photographer across the narrow alley facing the floral-framed window. Use a portrait lens mode to blur background pedestrians while keeping the hanging dry flowers sharp in the foreground.
• Alley Depth Shot: Stand at the center of Supyo-ro 28-gil and shoot low to the ground. Angle your camera slightly upward to catch both the stone paving below and the repeating lines of wooden Hanok roof eaves above.
• Hotel Seine Angle: Stand on the opposite pavement across the alley from the entrance. Use a wide-angle mobile phone setting to capture all six vertical floors and the retro overhead neon sign in a single frame.

FAQ

What is the best time of day to visit Ikseon-dong kdrama filming spots?

Early morning between 8:30 AM and 10:00 AM offers the best conditions for photography because the alleys are quiet and clear of crowds. However, if you wish to go inside the cafes featured in dramas like Hotel Del Luna or Goblin, aim to arrive right when business hours begin around 11:00 AM to secure a seat without a long wait.

Do I need to pay an admission fee to see these drama locations?

No, exploring the street alleys, public walkways, and exterior architecture of Ikseon-dong is completely free. Unhyeongung Palace nearby also offers free public access. If you wish to take photos inside specific cafes like Cafe Hotel Seine or Madang Flower Cafe, standard local etiquette requires ordering one food item or drink per person.

Are the alleyways accessible for travelers with suitcases or strollers?

The alleyways are paved with historic stone pavers and narrow asphalt strips that can be bumpy and uneven. While strollers and small rolling bags are manageable, large suitcases are difficult to wheel through crowded sections. It is best to use coin lockers at Jongno 3-ga or Anguk Station before exploring on foot.

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