Your Ultimate Guide to Iconic Goblin Filming Locations: Jumunjin Beach & the Buckwheat Field

An Unforgettable Journey to the Goblin’s World: Jumunjin Beach and the Buckwheat Field

Annyeonghaseyo, fellow K-drama enthusiasts! As a lifelong fan and a local who’s practically grown up on a steady diet of K-drama magic, I’m thrilled to welcome you to KDrama Trip! Today, we’re diving deep into one of the most beloved and visually stunning dramas of all time: Goblin (Guardian: The Lonely and Great God), or Dokkaebi. This drama captured hearts worldwide with its poignant story, breathtaking cinematography, and the unforgettable chemistry between its leads. And for us, the fans, its filming locations are not just places, but gateways to reliving those magical moments.

Two locations, in particular, stand out as truly iconic, etched into the memories of every fan: the windswept breakwater where our fated couple first met, and the sprawling, ethereal buckwheat field that felt like a portal to another realm. If you’re planning a trip to Korea and these scenes are on your must-visit list, you’re in for an absolute treat. Let’s unpack how you can experience the magic for yourself, complete with a local’s tips and tricks!

Jumunjin Beach Breakwater: Where Destiny First Called

Who could ever forget the pivotal scene where Ji Eun-tak, wearing her iconic red muffler, blows out a candle on her birthday, unwittingly summoning the Goblin, Kim Shin, for the very first time? This breathtaking encounter, set against the dramatic backdrop of the ocean, truly kickstarted their legendary romance. It’s a moment of pure magic, destiny unfolding right before our eyes, filled with curiosity, a touch of surprise, and the hint of a love story about to begin.

In real life, this mystical meeting spot is a simple, yet profoundly beautiful, breakwater on Jumunjin Beach (주문진 해변) in Gangneung, Gangwon-do. Before Goblin, it was just one of many breakwaters protecting the coastline. Now, it’s lovingly known as the “Goblin Breakwater” or “Dokkaebi Breakwater,” a pilgrimage site for fans from all corners of the globe. You’ll often see couples, friends, and solo travelers queuing up, complete with red scarves and buckwheat flower bouquets, eager to recreate that iconic moment. The power of K-drama, right? It truly is a testament to the drama’s impact that such a humble structure has become a symbol of destined love.

How to get there

Getting to Jumunjin Beach is a journey from Seoul, but a truly rewarding one that takes you to Korea’s picturesque East Coast. It’s an ideal destination for a day trip or an overnight stay to truly soak in the coastal charm.

• From Seoul to Gangneung:
  • Express Bus: The most straightforward way is to take an express bus from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (고속터미널역) or Dongseoul Bus Terminal (동서울종합터미널) to Gangneung Intercity Bus Terminal (강릉시외버스터미널). Buses run frequently, and the journey takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on traffic. It’s a comfortable ride, and you’ll often see the stunning scenery of the Taebaek Mountains as you approach Gangneung.
  • KTX Train: For a faster, albeit slightly pricier, option, you can take the KTX high-speed train from Seoul Station or Cheongnyangni Station (청량리역) directly to Gangneung Station (강릉역). This journey typically takes around 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours.
• From Gangneung Bus/Train Terminal to Jumunjin Beach:
  • Local Bus: Once you arrive in Gangneung, head to the bus stop outside the terminal. Look for local buses heading towards Jumunjin. Bus numbers like 300, 302, 303, 314, 300-1 (numbers may vary slightly, always check the destination on the bus or ask the driver) generally go to Jumunjin. The ride to Jumunjin takes about 30-40 minutes. Get off at ‘Jumunjin Beach’ or ‘Jumunjin Port’ and then it’s a short walk to the specific breakwater. It’s a very popular spot, so you’ll likely see signs or other fans heading in the same direction!
  • Taxi: A taxi from Gangneung Terminal to Jumunjin Beach will take about 20-25 minutes and is a convenient option if you’re traveling with a group or have luggage. The fare will be around 20,000-25,000 KRW, depending on traffic.

Remember, it’s always a good idea to check real-time bus schedules and routes using navigation apps like Naver Maps or Kakao Maps once you’re in Korea. They are incredibly helpful for public transport!

Borinara Hagwon Farm: The Goblin’s Enchanted Buckwheat Field

Ah, the buckwheat field. This place isn’t just a location; it’s a mood, a feeling, a symbol of Kim Shin’s long, lonely existence and his quiet yearning for Eun-tak. It’s where he retreats to ponder his immortal life, and where Eun-tak eventually finds him, creating some of the most romantic and wistful scenes in the entire drama. The vast expanse of white flowers under a crisp sky, the soft rustling of the stalks – it’s pure poetry, an image of serene beauty and deep emotion.

This breathtaking landscape is actually Borinara Hagwon Farm (보리나라 학원농장) in Gochang County, Jeollabuk-do. While Goblin showcased its stunning buckwheat fields, the farm is actually famous for its seasonal crops. In spring, it’s a sea of green barley, and in autumn, it transforms into the magical buckwheat field we all recognize. It’s a massive agricultural complex, and its beauty is celebrated throughout Korea, even beyond its K-drama fame. Visiting here means immersing yourself in the tranquility of rural Korea, surrounded by nature’s artistry.

How to get there

Borinara Hagwon Farm is located in a more rural part of Korea, making it a bit more challenging to reach than Jumunjin Beach, especially by public transport alone. It often requires a bit more planning or combining different modes of transport. This makes it a destination for those truly dedicated to seeing the Goblin’s tranquil haven!

• From Seoul to Gochang:
  • Express Bus: Take an express bus from Seoul Central City Bus Terminal (호남선) to Gochang Intercity Bus Terminal (고창시외버스터미널). The journey usually takes around 3.5 to 4 hours. Buses are comfortable, but they don’t run as frequently as routes to major cities.
• From Gochang Bus Terminal to Borinara Hagwon Farm:
  • Local Bus: From Gochang Bus Terminal, you can catch a local bus (농어촌버스) towards Hagwon Farm. These buses are less frequent and the schedules can be a bit tricky to navigate without local knowledge. It’s essential to check the bus schedule at the terminal or ask for assistance. The ride itself can take about 30-40 minutes.
  • Taxi: This is often the most practical and recommended option from Gochang Bus Terminal. A taxi ride to Borinara Hagwon Farm will take approximately 20-30 minutes, and the fare will be around 15,000-20,000 KRW. Given the rural location and potentially infrequent bus services, a taxi might save you a lot of waiting time and hassle, especially if you’re on a tight schedule.
  • Rental Car: If you’re comfortable driving in Korea, renting a car is arguably the most convenient way to visit Borinara Hagwon Farm and explore Gochang County. It gives you the flexibility to visit at your own pace and combine it with other attractions in the area. The farm has ample parking available.

Important Note on Seasonality: The buckwheat flowers at Borinara Hagwon Farm typically bloom in late summer to early autumn (late August to October). If you visit outside of this window, you’ll likely see different crops (like green barley in spring) or fallow fields. While still beautiful, it won’t be the iconic white buckwheat sea from Goblin. Always check the farm’s official website or local tourism information for blooming schedules before planning your trip!

Make a Day of It: Beyond the Goblin Spots

Visiting these iconic locations is incredible, but why not extend your adventure and explore the charm of their surrounding areas? Both Gangneung and Gochang offer rich cultural experiences, delicious local food, and stunning natural beauty.

In Gangneung (near Jumunjin Beach):

• Jumunjin Fish Market (주문진수산시장): A bustling, vibrant market located very close to the Goblin breakwater. It’s renowned for its incredibly fresh seafood, caught daily from the East Sea. You can buy various seafood here and even have it prepared on the spot at one of the many restaurants. It’s an authentic Korean market experience – lively, fragrant, and delicious!
• Youngjin Beach (영진해변): Just a short walk or taxi ride from the main Jumunjin area, Youngjin Beach boasts another iconic Goblin spot – the pier where Eun-tak playfully pushes the Goblin into the sea. It’s a quieter, more serene beach, perfect for a peaceful stroll or a moment of reflection.
• Anmok Coffee Street (안목해변 커피거리): If you’re a coffee lover, a visit to Gangneung isn’t complete without experiencing Anmok Coffee Street. Lined with dozens of stylish cafes, each offering incredible ocean views, it’s the perfect spot to relax with a delicious brew and watch the waves. The atmosphere is fantastic, especially during sunset.
• Ojukheon House (오죽헌): Step back in time at this historic site, one of Korea’s oldest residential buildings. It’s the birthplace of Shin Saimdang and her son Yi I (Yulgok), two prominent figures in Korean history (you’ll see their faces on the 50,000 and 5,000 won bills, respectively!). It’s a beautiful complex of traditional Korean architecture and serene grounds.
• Chodang Dubu Village (초당두부마을): Gangneung is famous for its ‘chodang dubu’ (tofu), known for its incredibly soft texture and rich flavor, made with seawater. This village is packed with restaurants specializing in various tofu dishes, from spicy tofu stew to a simple, unseasoned tofu served with soy sauce. A must-try for foodies!

In Gochang (near Borinara Hagwon Farm):

• Gochang Dolmen Sites (고창 고인돌 유적): A UNESCO World Heritage site, Gochang boasts the highest concentration of dolmens (megalithic tombs from the prehistoric era) in the world. It’s an awe-inspiring place that offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient human history. The sheer scale and number of these stone structures are truly remarkable.
• Gochang Fortress (고창읍성): A beautifully preserved stone fortress from the Joseon Dynasty, Gochang Fortress is a wonderful place for a leisurely walk. You can walk along the fortress walls, enjoying panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. It’s especially beautiful in autumn when the foliage changes color.
• Local Delicacies: Gochang is renowned for its agricultural products. Don’t leave without trying some of its famous specialties. Bokbunja (Korean black raspberry wine) is a local pride, known for its deep color and health benefits. Freshwater eel (jang-eo) is another highly sought-after dish, often grilled and served with various sauces.

Photo Tips for Your Goblin Pilgrimage

You’ve traveled all this way, so let’s make sure you capture those perfect K-drama-worthy shots!

Jumunjin Beach Breakwater

• The Exact Angle: To perfectly replicate Eun-tak and Kim Shin’s first meeting, have one person stand on the sand facing the breakwater, holding a small cake or a single candle, with a red muffler draped around their neck. The other person should stand on the breakwater itself, looking out at the sea, with the sand-standing person in their line of sight. Frame the shot so the vastness of the ocean is behind the ‘Goblin’ and the waves gently lap at the feet of ‘Eun-tak’.
• Props: A red muffler is non-negotiable! If you can find a small bouquet of buckwheat flowers, even better. Don’t worry if you don’t have them; vendors near the breakwater often sell both, so you can pick them up on the spot.
• Best Time of Day: Early morning (right after sunrise) is ideal. The light is soft and golden, creating a magical glow, and crucially, there are far fewer crowds. Sunset also offers dramatic colors, but expect more people. Weekdays will always be less busy than weekends.

Borinara Hagwon Farm (Buckwheat Field)

• The Exact Angle: This location calls for wide, sweeping shots to capture the sheer scale of the field. Find an elevated spot or a pathway winding through the fields to truly showcase the endless white blooms. For close-ups, get down low amongst the buckwheat flowers, capturing their delicate beauty. Have your subject walk slowly through the paths, looking wistfully into the distance, or reaching out to touch the flowers, just like Eun-tak.
• Best Time of Day: Late afternoon, especially during the ‘golden hour’ (the hour before sunset), will bathe the field in a warm, ethereal light, making the white flowers truly glow. Early morning, with any lingering mist, can also create a wonderfully dreamy and poignant atmosphere.
• Important Note: Remember to stay on designated paths and avoid trampling the flowers. These are working farms, and we want to preserve their beauty for everyone to enjoy!

FAQ: Your Top Goblin Filming Location Questions Answered

Is the Goblin breakwater at Jumunjin Beach always crowded?

Yes, due to its immense popularity, the Goblin breakwater can get very crowded, especially on weekends, public holidays, and during peak tourist seasons. You’ll often find a queue of people waiting patiently for their turn to take photos. To avoid the longest waits and enjoy a more peaceful experience, try visiting early in the morning (right after sunrise) or late in the afternoon on a weekday. The magic is worth a bit of a wait, but planning smart definitely helps!

Can I find buckwheat flowers year-round at Borinara Hagwon Farm?

Unfortunately, no. Buckwheat is a seasonal crop. The iconic white buckwheat flowers that graced Goblin typically bloom in late summer to early autumn, usually from late August through October. Outside of this window, the farm cultivates other crops, such as green barley in spring (April-May), or may have fallow fields. While the farm is beautiful year-round, if seeing the specific buckwheat field from the drama is your goal, it’s crucial to plan your visit within its blooming season. Always check their official seasonal information before you go!

Are there other ‘Goblin’ spots near Jumunjin Beach or in Gangneung?

Absolutely! While the main breakwater is the star, another easily accessible Goblin spot is the pier at Youngjin Beach (영진해변), just a short distance from Jumunjin. This is where Eun-tak pushes the Goblin into the sea, a lighthearted yet memorable scene. You can easily walk or take a quick taxi between the two. Also, within Gangneung city itself, while not a specific filming location, the general coastal vibe and charming streets evoke the drama’s atmosphere, making it a perfect extension to your Goblin-themed trip. Don’t forget to explore the local cafes and seafood markets for the full Gangneung experience!